[DodgeCares]

Thanks for the reply SackMonkey. I understand that frustration. I realize from reading more threads here that more serious issues seem to have gone unaddressed for long periods (months) and have had mixed success and needed to escalate things much further and longer and gone thru legal remedies. It's a real shock to someone who was so excited that an electric car that fit my family's lifestyle is finally in my driveway. In any case, I want to follow the process. I can have empathy for the dealers and service people, while still expecting a level of service and commitment to listening.

I did some more testing late into the night last night. I did have some success with the off -> ACC -> off method, at least in the case that I manually triggered the repro via multiple tunk opens in a row while parked. This reliabily worked both while on and off the level 2 charger, phone Bluetooth off, proximity sensor off
I fear that it won't work when hitting other scenarios like the single-press right after stopping or the broken-on-return-to-idle car as the BCM may be in different states. But it's worth a try I need to try these out before my wife does, else I worry she will put the groceries through a broken back window lol

Your desire to have this addressed is completely understandable, and we're willing to look into this for potential answers and support. When given the chance, contact us, and we'll go from there.

Chris,
Dodge Cares

 

[EatsShoots]

We're sorry to hear of this. Our team has reached out to you directly for support related to this. Your follow-up will be greatly appreciated whenever you get the chance.

Chris,
Dodge Cares

What is the status of this issue?

2025 r/t. Trunk won’t open for second time. This has nothing to do with 3-5 open events per ignition cycle. Starting/stopping the car won’t open it. Mine now won’t open in the last two drives I’ve taken it just will not open anymore.

 

[EatsShoots]

@DodgeCares has this been addressed? Having the same issues. Turning the engine off and on does not work. Locking and walking the key out of proximity does not work. The only way to get the trunk open during one of these episodes is to turn the ignition off, place in Accessory mode and turn off again. The trunk latch will then release with the button.

This worked. Tonight the trunk refused to work. But, after waiting a while and walking up to it...and it still not working, I got into the driver's seat, went into accessory mode, turned it off a moment later, and then the trunk unlatched.

 

[Graham_Mopar]

@EatsShoots - Chris from DodgeCares helped me open up a support case (#94315335) and I am awaiting outreach from a case manager. It will be nice to compile a set of open cases for this issue together for anyone else that has opened cases on trunk issues.

It's good to know that off -> ACC -> off worked for your scenario. I haven't had a chance to repro other button issues yet, but I will be trying this next time I see a case where it won't open even on the first press.

 

[stringfellow]

I’m just wondering if this is something else. My ‘21 Charger would sometimes not open the trunk, but it was usually after a carwash or a rain, and it got basically water locked in that the seal was too good and it would stick, and have to peel it open.

I’ve had a couple instances where I’ve pushed the button to open the hatch on my ‘24 R/T and it won’t open. So I hit the button again and give it a little assist and all good. Seems that again, at least on mine the seal gets tight.

 

[Sackmonkey]

@EatsShoots - Chris from DodgeCares helped me open up a support case (#94315335) and I am awaiting outreach from a case manager. It will be nice to compile a set of open cases for this issue together for anyone else that has opened cases on trunk issues.

It's good to know that off -> ACC -> off worked for your scenario. I haven't had a chance to repro other button issues yet, but I will be trying this next time I see a case where it won't open even on the first press.

In my post I mentioned hammering the On/Off button repeatedly to get it to eventually start working again. I typically would not be holding the brake pedal when I did this, so essentially I was actually going into ACC mode also.

 

[DaBoostR]

I got my 2025 Charger Daytona a couple of weeks ago and I’m loving it so far. Only issue that I’ve had so far is that the trunk will randomly get stuck and will not open. Does anyone else have the same issue? If so, does anyone have a trick to get it to work properly? View attachment 2268

Happened once last week. Once I got home, it was fine and haven't had an issue since. I am still bringing her in though to make sure its aligned properly. Seems a little to high when its latched. The trunk is a mm higher than the side panels.

 

[Phooey]

In my post I mentioned hammering the On/Off button repeatedly to get it to eventually start working again. I typically would not be holding the brake pedal when I did this, so essentially I was actually going into ACC mode also.

I cringe every time I see someone do this. You are waking up a computer. Wanna guarantee it breaks? Go ahead and keep spamming that power button.

No common sense.

 

[Sackmonkey]

I cringe every time I see someone do this. You are waking up a computer. Wanna guarantee it breaks? Go ahead and keep spamming that power button.

No common sense.

Man, you're ridiculous. Do you honestly think you're powering up a computer when you hit that button? It's not Control-Alt-Delete for crying out loud! This isn't 1985. It's a single digital signal input into a body ECU that is then deciding how to adjust power modes in the vehicle. But hey, no common sense and all.. what do I know.. I've only worked in electrical systems development in automotive for the past 28 years.

If I were doing this to the 12V battery post, that would be a different story.

 

[Phooey]

Man, you're ridiculous. Do you honestly think you're powering up a computer when you hit that button? It's not Control-Alt-Delete for crying out loud! This isn't 1985. It's a single digital signal input into a body ECU that is then deciding how to adjust power modes in the vehicle. But hey, no common sense and all.. what do I know.. I've only worked in electrical systems development in automotive for the past 28 years.

If I were doing this to the 12V battery post, that would be a different story.

"It's a single digital signal input"

Uh, and wtf do you think the power button on a computer is?

You are literally pressing the start button and waking an Android-based COMPUTER from sleep, and there are lots of processes that kicks off. There is absolutely zero legitimate reason you should spam the start button. First, it's going to do nothing whatsoever to fix an issue. Second, if it's actually waking the car but you're just not seeing anything on the screen, spamming it like a dumbass is very quickly forcing the computer to wake, sleep, wake, sleep.

Other than making yourself look like a complete fool, you are absolutely not fixing anything and are potentially causing other issues.

But go ahead, spam that button like a moron. Good luck with that.

 

[Sackmonkey]

"It's a single digital signal input"

Uh, and wtf do you think the power button on a computer is?

You are literally pressing the start button and waking an Android-based COMPUTER from sleep, and there are lots of processes that kicks off. There is absolutely zero legitimate reason you should spam the start button. First, it's going to do nothing whatsoever to fix an issue. Second, if it's actually waking the car but you're just not seeing anything on the screen, spamming it like a dumbass is very quickly forcing the computer to wake, sleep, wake, sleep.

Other than making yourself look like a complete fool, you are absolutely not fixing anything and are potentially causing other issues.

But go ahead, spam that button like a moron. Good luck with that.

Sorry, but you're wrong. An automobile hasn't been architected like that for a very long time.. back when turning a physical key cylinder was making 12V power connections to turn on a relay, which then turned on the ECU(s). Different modules on the bus wake up and go to sleep based on power moding CAN commands from the BCM (body control module) and this basic approach has been done since the late 90's. Spamming the button is forcing the BCM to reset the power mode command, but it's not like it's plugging/unplugging anything. And even if it's sending an "Off" power mode command to the ECUs, they don't just cut the power.. there is a controlled wake-up and sleep process for every single ECU's microprocessor. You're simply wrong here. But hey, I've only been doing this for my whole career, so you must know better.

The only thing Android based in a car is typically the infotainment system ECU, btw, but there are other options that are just as common (QNX).

Since my first day joining this forum, you've been a disrespectful, unhelpful, abrasive, know-it-all. I suspect you've been that way your whole life and that nothing I say will ever change that fact, therefore I'm just going to block you and move on. Feel free to reply again, but I won't see it.

 

[Pioneer4x4]

So...
After the usual interruption, back to trunk issues.
I would love for something trunk related to show up in a TSB at some point, maybe @MoparTechJordan will let us know.

 

[Sackmonkey]

So...
After the usual interruption, back to trunk issues.
I would love for something trunk related to show up in a TSB at some point, maybe @MoparTechJordan will let us know.

Have you actually experienced the trunk issue, Pioneer? I thought it was limited to R/T models only, but maybe I missed a post.

 

[Pioneer4x4]

Have you actually experienced the trunk issue, Pioneer? I thought it was limited to R/T models only, but maybe I missed a post.

Nope. Buy I still believe that other issues are related to opening the trunk.

 

[Phooey]

Since my first day joining this forum, you've been a disrespectful, unhelpful, abrasive, know-it-all. I suspect you've been that way your whole life and that nothing I say will ever change that fact, therefore I'm just going to block you and move on. Feel free to reply again, but I won't see it.

Oh yay, the personal attack route. Yeah, that's sure to work. Am I disrespectful? Maybe. I have little tolerance for stupidity.

Oh no, I'm blocked. I couldn't give a rat's ass.

 

[MoparTechJordan]

So...
After the usual interruption, back to trunk issues.
I would love for something trunk related to show up in a TSB at some point, maybe @MoparTechJordan will let us know.

There hasnt been any TSBs or STAR cases released on the hatch yet, are you having a issue where it's not responding whatsoever with the key or button on the over head console?

Or a issue where you can kind of hear it pop, it starts beeping, but fails to lift?

I have replaced one latch already for the second symptom, the latch was also setting failure and obstruction codes.

Ive also notice on my person vehicle that when I am driving like a asshole almost any loose object left in my hatch area will slide back and wedge itself between the hatch and floor causing it to not open correctly, the latch will click, it will beep like it wants to open, then synch itself back down. It takes me physically pulling up on the hatch while hitting to button to free and open it.

I've stopped letting unnecessary items life in my hatch and moved those things to the frunk and it has seemed to resolve it.

 

[Phooey]

There hasnt been any TSBs or STAR cases released on the hatch yet, are you having a issue where it's not responding whatsoever with the key or button on the over head console?

Or a issue where you can kind of hear it pop, it starts beeping, but fails to lift?

I have replaced one latch already for the second symptom, the latch was also setting failure and obstruction codes.

Ive also notice on my person vehicle that when I am driving like a asshole almost any loose object left in my hatch area will slide back and wedge itself between the hatch and floor causing it to not open correctly, the latch will click, it will beep like it wants to open, then synch itself back down. It takes me physically pulling up on the hatch while hitting to button to free and open it.

I've stopped letting unnecessary items life in my hatch and moved those things to the frunk and it has seemed to resolve it.

I've noticed recently that opening my hatch using the external button takes a few presses, and the last time I tried, it just wouldn't open at all, not even with the fob. I had to go inside and press the button on the overhead console, and it opened immediately.

There was no sound like it was trying but just stuck, it was just silent and not responding at all. I think this is basically what a lot of the R/T owners who were complaining previously about this were experiencing, and having no overhead console button, it makes it impossible for them to open the hatch.

 

[Graham_Mopar]

There hasnt been any TSBs or STAR cases released on the hatch yet, are you having a issue where it's not responding whatsoever with the key or button on the over head console?

Or a issue where you can kind of hear it pop, it starts beeping, but fails to lift?

I have replaced one latch already for the second symptom, the latch was also setting failure and obstruction codes.

Ive also notice on my person vehicle that when I am driving like a asshole almost any loose object left in my hatch area will slide back and wedge itself between the hatch and floor causing it to not open correctly, the latch will click, it will beep like it wants to open, then synch itself back down. It takes me physically pulling up on the hatch while hitting to button to free and open it.

I've stopped letting unnecessary items life in my hatch and moved those things to the frunk and it has seemed to resolve it.

First, I wish I had a frunk 😕

I am not sure that the issues seen with the power hatch are the same as what's happening on the R/T. I'd think they have very different latch release mechanism. If you hear beeping or any action, then that's further than the R/T gets with its single button. When this issue happens with the button on the R/T, it just does absolutely nothing or it works fine. I've had it happen when I closed the trunk very softly or maybe only part way - IE, I popped it to open, then without actually opening just pushed it down till a click. I've never had to do any kind of physical action. There is a STAR case I found about it:

And says "The hatch will only open 3-5 times per ignition cycle based on a current (amperage) threshold." A binding latch would not cause it to use more amperage.

FYI, I got a call from Stellantis today to follow up on my case #94315335 that Chris from @DodgeCares helped me open (thank you!). I explained the issue and they said they would call the dealership to have them try to fix it. I said I am willing to leave the car there for diagnosis, but also emphasized that the dealer likely isn't going to be able to resolve the issue by themselves. Is this is where the STAR case comes in? IE the dealer will open a STAR case with Stellantis for support?

 

[Pioneer4x4]

First, I wish I had a frunk 😕

I am not sure that the issues seen with the power hatch are the same as what's happening on the R/T. I'd think they have very different latch release mechanism. If you hear beeping or any action, then that's further than the R/T gets with its single button. When this issue happens with the button on the R/T, it just does absolutely nothing or it works fine. ...

I assume (please correct me if wrong) that this discussion about the trunk (hidden hatch) and being "R/T Specific" is actually about "non-Plus Group" specific. Since you mention no Frunk, that is a Plus feature, not a R/T or Scat Pack difference.
Should this be clarified as a "Manual Trunk Release" issue? (or something similar)

 

[Graham_Mopar]

@Pioneer4x4 - you are right. Mine is a 'manual trunk issue', meaning you do not have the "Plus Group" which includes the Power Liftgate. Thank you for helping clarify that.