#2 is dumb. The whole point of automatic climate control is so you never have to touch the controls.
#1 is a minor annoyance, from my experience. Our Taycan changes accelerator-off regen when you switch modes, but a quick steering wheel button press fixes that. I don't recall the default regen logic in our Audi, but I think it starts at zero...which I strongly prefer.

I wish the Daytona had zero accelerator-off regen, but it seems .1g is the minimum it allows.

 

I could be doing something wrong, not saving to a profile/preset, who knows, but I don't think so.
As for #1, my experience is on our KIA EV9, it keeps regen at 3 on restart, but not iPedal (stoopid name for full OPD to a stop) because it needs front motor engaged full time to work right, and that affects range, which is a published number, so can't be default, thank you gov'ment
And my 2021 Polestar 2 I traded was set regen to Strong, Soft, or OFF (something like that) and turn off Creep, and boom, full OPD every time you drive it, lovely. This was the car I drove for the last year, ignoring the car itself (I did like it) it was a hoot to drive and no issues at all, every time everything was the same.
Now in the Dodge, you can set it up just like you want it (within the design) but then you change from Custom, to Auto, then back to Custom, and regen is different, WTF.
Anyway, I wanted to have a thread of things that I (and others) find that is seemingly something actually WRONG.

 

After updates

...
Climate default to OFF every vehicle start. I have to touch the "Auto/Eco" button turn turn it back on.
...

This appears to be resolved. I assume because of the updates applied, who knows?
I'd love access to a change log for this stuff.
Also, I emailed the dodgegarage email that I got the First Call email from with this list. I'm sure I'll get a "check with your dealer" but honestly, how in the hell can they know any of this, and/or change any of it.
Please let me know of my list and if you agree/disagree/don't give a shit, whatever. But please keep it to actual issues. I'll add/remove things from a list as needed if it comes to that.
I'm sure the YouTUbers out there will see this as basing the car, but for the most part the list is annoyances and preferences. I strongly thing that the first 2 are serious enough to be changed ASAP, but other than that, and the rest, I do love the car, and love driving it once setup how I like it (each time).

 

My issues/questions (so far) are, in a basically order of importance (to me)

1. Safety issue - Regen levels reset to some arbitrary default of 1,2, or 3 after changing drive mode. This is bad, very bad. Once set, it should never change, even after a re-start. This affects braking, heck it IS braking, and the braking changes, as you drive is not safe.
2. Drive mode resets to Auto after restart (and resets regen level) - The ability to have a Custom setup is a great feature of the car, but if it resets, and you have to go through other modes to get to it after a restart is again, not safe. The car drives differently when you re-start it , than before you turned it off.
3. Main dash display resets after restart/drive mode change. - This is just weird. There are what, a dozen different combinations of displays, and it resets just by choosing Custom or Auto, or restarting your car (I think, I'll double check)?
4. DXR USB Drive Requirements - I only get "External storage is corrupt or damaged, Please reinsert or reformat this device" with an entertaining graphic of a smashed USB Thumb Drive. I've tried several of different age/size, formatted different ways (I am an I.T. professional for decades) and I get the same each time. No where in the manuals does it state what the requirements are. Via adapter from USB A to USB C, the USB drives I tried all work from the front 2 ports for media. So the car can read them. I suspect it is a software issue with the DXR itself? EDIT: exFAT less than 512K total number of Allocation Units works
5. Powershot requirements - I get the message almost all the time that it is unavailable due to battery level. No where was this ever mentioned in the advertising, or online, or in any of the manuals I fully reviewed before purchase. And also, it doesn't state anywhere WHAT the LEVEL actually is, or its requirements. (I assume charge level, but maybe temperature? It is very cold here, 20° tops so far.) If it is charge level, it seems to be 75% needed? If so, that plain sucks, period. You have the highly recommended option to only charge to 80% then right after you leave you lose power? I get it, but this should be fully explained before purchase. Basically I am not getting the advertised power that he car should have. That is one of the main reasons to buy the car in the first place. According to @DodgeCares , SOC over 20% and EV Battery Temp over 41°F (personally I'd say over 48°F)
6. Fratzonic "Exhaust" - Honestly I really expected to hate it and turn it off. This is my 3rd full EV after 2 PHEVs. Previously a Polestar 2 with Performance Pack and Performance Upgrade, and we still have a KIA EV6 Gt Line. I've never liked fakeanything on a car. The sound of it is REALLY growing on me, I use "Custom" drive mode so only "Sport" powertrain is set, everything else is "Street". And my wife, she hated it, but is not probably indifferent while driving to the sound in Sport Mode. BUT, (everything before "But" is B.S.) the startup/shutdown sounds are not as desireable. Especially when you have it in Auto Mode with Street selected. The driving sounds are faint, and a non-issue, but you still get forced to hear that (according to my wife "Obnoxious") startup/shutdown sounds. I get it, I like it, typically. But in the garage, when people are sleeping, or the dog hears it, I want it off. It takes 4 selections on the touch screen (WITH Settings as a favorite) to get to "EV Sounds" to turn it off, and back on. Please make some, or all options to do:
   • A setting in Custom Drive Mode for EV sounds and/or startup/shutdown sounds.
   • A special icon somewhere in uConnect to toggle sound (or just startup/shutdown)
   • A quick setting thing at the top on the uConnect same as above
   • At minimum, anormal choice in Settings to turn off "Startup/Shutdown" sounds separate from driving/idle sounds (which are cool).
7. The HVAC needed to be turned on after every start, this seems to be resolved after the updates, if so, thanks! EDIT: Still happening, not sure of the trigger. Resolved, caused by Race Prep being left turned on.

I will also be publishing this list online to see

1. If others have these same issues
2. Agree that they are actually issues

 

...
DXR USB Drive Requirements - I only get "External storage is corrupt or damaged, Please reinsert or reformat this device" with an entertaining graphic of a smashed USB Thumb Drive. I've tried several of different age/size, formatted different ways (I am an I.T. professional for decades) and I get the same each time. No where in the manuals does it state what the requirements are. Via adapter from USB A to USB C, the USB drives I tried all work from the front 2 ports for media. So the car can read them. I suspect it is a software issue with the DXR itself?
...

SUCCESS!
So far I tried 9 USB drives (well 7, 2 won't work on my PC)
And ALL have worked as media in various cars. I had 2 identical ones I bought to do Sync and Map updates on my Aviator Grand Touring (PHEV BEAST). They were exFAT, unlike like the rest that were FAT32. So I reformatted one as NTFS (FAT32 wasn't an option) and made unique volume labels for each. Went back to the car and tried the handful, the last one I tried WORKED.
I was able to rename it (change the Volume Label) from the DXR in the uConnect Screen. It showed it had all free space, and had 341 minutes of space on it. So I made that the Volume Label, both so I wouldn't forget, and so I'd know which it was.

The type of the file system is exFAT. Additional specs from CHKDSK as follows.

Volume label is 341 min.
50 percent completed..
File and folder verification is complete.

Windows has scanned the file system and found no problems.
No further action is required.

60078976 KB total disk space.
6656 KB in 4 files.
512 KB in 4 indexes.
0 KB in bad sectors.
256 KB in use by the system.
60071552 KB available on disk.

131072 bytes in each allocation unit.
469367 total allocation units on disk.
469309 allocation units available on disk.

Sample clip from it. Car just idling in my garage. I didn't even look, but EV Sounds were on, and I assume car was in "Auto" mode or "Street"
This is the USB THumb Drive that worked. I'll post specifics, and reformat others to test as well.

I think this is them

Amazon.com: SanDisk 64GB 2-Pack Ultra USB 3.0 Flash Drive (2x64GB) - SDCZ48-064G-GAM462, Black : Electronics

Buy SanDisk 64GB 2-Pack Ultra USB 3.0 Flash Drive (2x64GB) - SDCZ48-064G-GAM462, Black: USB Flash Drives - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

The only one I'd disagree with as an issue without having the car yet is point #2. I don't see an issue with reverting to Auto mode on startup. My Challenger does the same - Sport doesn't stay through a power cycle, which I find acceptable. I suppose that's a personal preference thing.

 

Thanks for the input. It is more that the damned regen defaults back from 3 to 1 or 2 depending on mode that gets me.
Track-Drag-Sport, all have traction control off, so I get it, but Custom should stay. I'm not sure if Wet/Snow stays, I think that was an issue that people complained about on Jeeps, I forget.

 

1- blind spot always on or not working , had to turn in off to stop the yellow spot .

2- heater make strong noise , not the air sound but look like the fan and i dont know if its only mine

 

I don't notice anything on the heater sounds, but blind spot seems to work great for me. And I like how you can set it to light or light and sound. Some cars you can't.

 

This one did NOT work
Same size, also exFAT
60,554,624 KB total disk space.
64 KB in 1 hidden files.
128 KB in 2 files.
60,554,368 KB are available.

65,536 bytes in each allocation unit.
946,166 total allocation units on disk.
946,162 allocation units available on disk.

This is the one that did work

Hmm, so the "Format" dialog shows what it WILL be, not what it currently is.
I'll re-do them so they have the larger Allocation unit, which reduces the size of the FAT table, and try them again.

 

More success. I only messed with my large ones at this point, but to sum up.
exFat works
key is less than 512k of allocation units.
mathing that out, on a 64gb stick, 128k size works, on a 128gb stick, 256k allocation size works (128 did not).
So my 128gb stick, now works, and has 682 minutes of record time at 1080p (max setting)

You can hear startup and different idle sounds. I changed modes and spoke as I did it to see if voice overlays.
I need to run an errand soon, I'll play with it as I drive. I added a shortcut or whatever to the DXR at the top of the uConnect Screen, and it now automatically shows recording as soon as I fire her up, and you can touch it to stop recording.

 

How’s the panel gaps and especially the rear light misalignment that all the YouTube haters kept ragging on?

 

Haven't noticed anything, Haven't watched any of those. But I bet if it had a 392 in it there wouldn't be complaints about gaps.

 

Well my dealer got two new Chargers one of each. I was able to drive a black scat pack and what a blast. I put it through its paces awesome. Love the way you can change the exhaust. Regen works much like on my Jeep 4XE I like the feature. Sound levels in the car are fantastic very quite. I would have like to had a stealth mode also. I like the interior lighting and the way you can change the colors. Later RJD

 

... I would have like to had a stealth mode also...

Turn off - Settings -> Electric Vehicle -> EV Sounds
And the car is silent

 

Hello everyone. I bought one of these in whim on Wednesday and am glad to see others reporting some of the issues I have. The car won't remember what mode I'm in and resets the regenerative braking, but it seems that's an issue for everyone. However, I am having two more issues I haven't seen mentioned and wanted to ask here. When I have the "engine noise" turned on, one of the speakers crackles quite loudly. It's obviously not intended, and doesn't happen with music or audiobooks or alerts, just the engine noise. Secondly, and this is minor, my touchscreen is turned off by default Everytime I turn the car on. I have to manually turn it on every time I get into it. This is a minor inconvenience but it still seems like a bit of a miss. Has anyone else had these issues?

 

Congrats on getting your Charger @gameslave7 and welcome! I wonder if some of these things could be fixed by doing a reset. Or and update of some kind if/when there is one.

Overall are you liking the car?

 

Ok I put a lot of miles on my R/T today and here are my issues:

Regen resetting after a power cycle is stupid, annoying, and disconcerting This needs a fix.

I observed a slight different pattern with regen and drive modes than others with Scat Packs have. At least on my R/T, Sport has a default regen setting of 2, and Auto of 1. This actually makes sense, as my old Challenger provided engine braking in Sport. When I turned the regen up to 2 in Auto, then switched to Sport, then returned to Auto, it stayed in 2. It did seem to be different with 3, but honestly I haven't played around enough with regen at 3 to definitively say what was happening. I'll report back more when I do more testing with that.

My one complaint that hasn't been previously noted has to do with Regen settings 2 and 3 however. With Creep off, i.e. one pedal driving, and taking my foot all the way off the throttle to slow down, it does a fine job slowing the car down, but at least on level roads, just before coming to a stop, it grabs the brakes a bit too hard. Basically like a teenager who hasn't learned to feather out the brake as coming to a stop. This is a better issue than an 09 Yukon Hybrid my family had that did the opposite (release regen before physical brakes applied) but it still is jarring and annoying. Seems to be solved by staying a tiny bit on the throttle until almost stopped, or feathering in some brake. Look, I get (from experience) that regen tuning is hard, and this is their first shot at it, but it needs a bit more work.

 

On the braking, mine does it even with creep on. I drive it in Sport with regen at max, and I've already gotten pretty good at feathering out the accelerator just to the point that regen seems to stop and I'm very very slowly rolling just before I need to actually stop. I switch to brake and feather it in, and just before the car should stop, the breaks suddenly grab and stop it for me. And it's not consistent either - sometimes I can perfectly feather it to a stop.

But it also seems like when it happens, the brakes hold for too long after I release the pedal as well. I'll come to a stop at the light, the brakes grabbing prematurely. The light turns green and I release the brake pedal, but then a second or so later, the brake actually releases and the car has a very quick but light lunge forward as if I had been applying the accelerator against the brake - I definitely was not, I don't brake with my left foot.

Sometimes though, I can feather it to a perfectly smooth stop, and then I'll release the brake to start moving again and it just releases instantly and the car begins creeping as expected, and it feels no different than my Challenger.

Honestly for me, it's little quirks like these that have the biggest impact on my getting used to driving it.

 

Hi , recently i took delivery of my scatpack daytona . Everything is fine except I have issues with keyless entry not working and having difficulty disconnecting charger . Reached out to delaer , they told chrysler is aware about this issue related to key sensor but for now dealership is waiting for the update before march .

Did any one got a portable charger with their Daytona .

 

Hi , recently i took delivery of my scatpack daytona . Everything is fine except I have issues with keyless entry not working and having difficulty disconnecting charger . Reached out to delaer , they told chrysler is aware about this issue related to key sensor but for now dealership is waiting for the update before march .

Did any one got a portable charger with their Daytona .

Both of our EVs, with the same J-1772 charge port as the Daytona has, require a button be pressed to release the charge plug when the vehicle is charging. One requires it be pushed to remove the plug regardless whether the vehicle is charging or not, and the other one does not. I think it's a safety feature while the vehicle is charging, because it shuts the current off before the plug can be removed. IDK why there isn't a standard for how the plug is released when the vehicle isn't charging, but there are a lot of manufacturer-specific differences in the EV world as they all reinvent the wheel.

I have no experience with the Daytona, but this might help.

 

I have also had difficulty removing my charger from the charging port.

I found the car needs to be actively charging, and you have to press a small button to the right of the portion. This will stop the circuit and let you remove the charger. But this is not explained anywhere, in any manual.

And I did not receive a portable charger with mine Daytona, and I think this was a mistake. I asked about it and was told the options were either a $600 charging credit or they'd give you a home charger for free for you to have installed. But no mobile charger. I will likely get one for myself at a later date. But with a price tag of about $600 for a good one, that's a bit much to do right now.

Hope you enjoy the vehicle!

 

I found 2 more "bugs" and I forwarded them to my concierge.
Audio changes when screenshot is taken (trivial issue)

And incorrect charge time estimate on level 1.

 

I found 2 more "bugs" and I forwarded them to my concierge.
Audio changes when screenshot is taken (trivial issue)

And incorrect charge time estimate on level 1.

That first one is bizarre and annoying.

Good catch on the second one. It shouldn't be more than 45 hours on "Level 1", though perhaps the drain from having the car on while you were in it was consuming several hundred watts.

 

I've noticed, if you press and hold the disconnect on the cable, after a few seconds it releases.

 

It is mentioned in several different videos/documents. It would be useful only as a backup/emergency device since it would take literally days to get the car charged up, but day to day for short trips, you would gain ground. I used a 110v granny cable on my Polestar 2 for a month until I got something else rigged up.
I'll compile what references I do know of.
QuickStart Guide doesn't say it is included, but shows a picture of it.

The linked video on MOPAR's Youtube channel, from the QR code, shows it in the trunk.
"The portable charging cordset (EVSE) can be found in the storage area below the storage lid..."

The Owner's Handbook says "If Equipped"

Same with Owner's Manual

 

I purchased a Dodge Level 1 charger and have it sitting in the spot shown in the manual (I can't get it to look that neat though). At a 1.44kWh charge rate, it's giving me about 4 miles every hour. It's an emergency solution to get me to a public fast charger. Better than not having it.

 

this morning i cant even disconnecting charger. no green light ,, the small button wont work ,, i did shut the house breaker to stop the charge and now car wont charge anymore when breaker is back up. as of now Dodge thech is otw to my house to try fix it ,,

 

Uh oh. That's not a good sign.

 

I have the same issue , I took my car to the dealership, they told chrysler is aware of the issue they will be sending an update before march. They couldn't do anything.

 

Did they say if that would be OTA or something we'd need to go in for?

I had a bit of an issue with the car being unhappy disconnecting the charger Sunday morning after it finished a charge to 80% overnight, but it resolved itself. Good to know they know about it.

 

If you do save screenshots to USB (it writes to the one in the front USB-C port, not the one in the USB-A port in the center console), be careful if you just share them out. They embed in the graphics, personal/private information, like your VIN, Miles on the car (actually shows as Kilometers!) and the exact GPS Coordinates, which was my garage at the time.
I Blacked out the specifics, but here is what it does. There does not appear to be any exif data in the images.

I don't know if this is good or bad, but it definitely should be something that you can toggle on or off as desired.
FWIW, this is from the 2018 Scat Pack Shaker I had.

 

Hey Mods! At this juncture, I propose a new forum Category, and the relocation and breakdown of these issues into their respective threads. It's starting to get crowded in here and hard to track the issues and conversations.

Who can make that happen?

 

💯

 

The dealership told once they recieve the update they will install . They didn't mention anything about OTA.

 

Ok I’ve had my Daytona for almost two weeks now and I’ve never noticed the autonomy tab up there before 😅 am I trippin or did they slide that in there somehow or was it always there

 

You know, I looked at that today as well. I swear I would have noticed it. When you choose it, mine is just totally blank.

 

For some reason it won’t let me upload a picture but I’m referring to where it says camera/electric vehicle/dashboard and so

 

I'd have to look